Athabasca Glacier is on of the six “fingers” of Columbia Icefield from Canadian Rockies. Because of the global warming, the glacier lost more than 1.5 km of its length in the last 125 years and more than a half from its initial volume. In present, it is “retreating” (melting) with 2-3 m per year! In 2008 it measure 6 km and its thickness was between 90 and 300m.

Due to its easy access from the Lake Louise - Jasper Road, and of the developed touristic area at Columbia Icefields, Athabasca is one of the most visited glaciers on the North American continent. These do not mean that is less dangerous than other glaciers, avalanches and hidden crevasses are present here like on any other glacier.

My story with Athabasca glacier stated in the summer of 2007, when I have been for 7 days in jasper, on Tonquin Valley and Edith Cavell with Florin and Sebastian. Then we stopped at Columbia Icefields Visitor Center as any other “respectable” tourist

99.99% from the ones that stop here, take few pictures with this incredible landscape, few souvenirs and maybe, if they have time, a walk to the glacier with the special tour cars. The other 0.01% climb the surrounding peaks. In 2007, we stopped like the 99.99% to take few pictures and something else: dreams to climb Athabasca. Two years before and with little experience in Canadian Rockies, Athabasca seemed impressive and for me it was quite impossible.

In 2008, Florin and CARA’s friends had an attempt to climb it, but they had to give up because of the bad weather. Then we continued our trip with an extraordinary day of kayak on three Jasper lakes. A week later, Florin returned with Ronald and made it to the top.

In 2009, after the successful attempt of Mount Hector, we as a team, in June 27 headed towards Athabasca. The weather forecast was partly cloudy.

1:15 am – we left Calgary, Florin drove those 300km and I took a nap

4:00 am – we were in the parking lot, we geared up and I could not find my sunglasses. I was sure that I did not leave them at home…but I could not see them among my belongings. Without sunglasses, the day could lead to real unpleasant moments!

4:45 am – after we exchanged “friendly” words, about whose fault was, we did not have a choice and we started hiking. We planned to share Florin sunglasses. At that moment, it was ok because it was dark, but on the top, the sunrise was visible. We were the last ones to leave the parking lot. Ahead of us, there were two groups. A group of eight far away and another of four, around 15 minutes in front.  Being nervous and frustrated, we hiked fast and we passed the group of 4 before reaching the glacier!

5:30 am – we were at the glacier and we started to gear up. The weather was perfect, the sun was raising….but I was not sure if I were happy for the clear sky and the sun because I did not have my sunglasses! We roped in and we stepped on the glacier.

Nu mai verific ceasul de aici inainte, ma bucur de zi si de sansa de a fi aici si de a urca acest varf  acoperit  partial de ghetar. Poate ca in 50 de ani ma voi intoarce si voi urca babeste doar varful, fara ghetar. Trist, foarte trist!  Dar deocamdata ghetarul exista, inca un motiv de bucurie…azi!

Conul de lumina ne ajunge si pe noi; incepem “programul” la ochelari.  Pana sub “tavan” urcam ok, fara nici o problema, zapada e inghetata.  Aici i-i ajungem din urma pe cei 8 din-naintea noastra ( 2 ghizi si 6 clienti).

Urcusul devine mai accentuat si avem parte de un strat proaspat si afanat de zapada care ne incetineste considerabil avansul. I-i lasam pe ceilati sa faca urme, noi dupa ei, mai schimbam o vorba…socializam precum montagnarzii.

Inainte de traversare, cei din fata se opresc sa se regrupeze. Noi continuam si facem noi urme de data asta!  Se vede ca nins  in ultimele zile, vreo 30 cm de zapada prospata peste zapada anterioara inghetata, reteta ideala pentru avalansa.  Ne miscam repede, sa iesim din zona, sa ajugem pe platou.

Platoul pare destul de mic si abordabil la inceput….dar cu cat inaintam cu atat devine mai lung si interminabil.  Ajungem si la piciorul de urcare pe Silver Horn,  o panta abrupta si inghetata si din fericire in umbra! E ultima parte de urcus serios si dintr-ul motiv misterios, amandoi urcam foarte incet si cu pause dese. Nu e nici o dificultate tehnica, nici macar nu e foarte aprupt… parca pedalam in gol si nu avansam deloc. Pentru prima data Florin ma roaga sa trec in fata sa mai bat si eu urme caci el nu mai poate!  Foarte ciudat, parca ne-am pierdut toata energia. Cele 3 ore de somn de azi-noapte isi spun cuvantul.  In cele e din urma ajungem si pe acest varf intermediar…ce priveliste! In toate directile…o minunatie de zi, un ocean de ghetari si o "padure" de varfuri.  De aici doar maxim 30 de minute pana pe varf!

aprox. 10:30 am – la ora la care de obicei ma trezesc in week-end, suntem deja pe varful Athabasca si contrar asteptarilor, suntem primii pe ziua de azi!  Mare bucurie mare!  Ce buna ar fi o cafea fierbinte!

Dar pozele vorbesc mai bine decat mine…..

Amandoi avem deja ochi de sudori! O sa fie interesant de condus acasa cei peste 300km.

La coborare ne intalnim cu grupul de 8, dar doar 5 (2 ghizi si 3 clienti) ajung pe varf. Ne grabim caci  norii incep sa se adune din Vest ( British Columbia). Pana ajungem din nou la traversare, vantul spulbera deja zapada, care uneori curge “ inocenta” in minuscule avalanse.  Nu mai e soare dar e vant si nici nu stiu care e mai rau pentru ochii nostrii.

Nu-i vreme de pierdut…o luam la picior si nu ne oprim decat cand ajungem la piatra.

12:15 pm – de acum in poteca si trecuti de riscuri, ne dezechipam linistiti, ne tragem sufletul si mancam de amiaza! Hamburgeri si ceapa verde si castraveti murati….care au fost purtati pana pe varf si inapoi!

2:00 pm – in parcare la masina, ne pregatim de plecare spre casa si surpriza: ochelarii mei de soare sub masina!   Se pare ca au cazut din ruxac de dimineata cand ne echipam! Ma bucur si ma enervez in acelasi timp, imi vine sa-i sparg!

6:00 pm – dupa alte cateva opriri pe drum, sunt  acasa pe terasa si beau bere…cu ochii inchisi! Ce zi minunata!

Athabasca e un ghetar usor…pe vreme buna si cu putin noroc de a nu nimeri crevasele. Nici nu vreau sa ma gandesc in ce mostru de munte se transforma pe vreme rea! Dar noi ne-am descurcat binisor iar pentru mine a fost o reusita extraordinara. Desigur ca acum vreau sa ma intorc si sa-l urcam din nou, pe o ruta diferita: Silver Horn…pana cand mai exista ghetar!